Ulysse Nardin Cloisonné Dial 1996
Ulysse Nardin 150th Anniversary San Marco Cloisonné Enamel Dial 'Ulysse' Ship
Serial: Limited Edition 11/25
Reference: 136-77-9
Circa: 1996
DIAL: Cloisonné enamel depicting the ship named Ulysse by Donzé Cadrans, 18K yellow gold base dial, Limited Edition 11/25
CASE: 37mm, 18K yellow gold, solid back with embossed Lion of Venice (winged lion sculpture) from Piazza San Marco
MOVEMENT: Caliber 2892A2, automatic, 21 jewels
STRAP: Leather strap with 18K yellow UN buckle
CONDITION REPORT: Excellent overall condition, the dial is perfectly preserved, case is unpolished and movement is running well
NOTES: This limited series for the 150th of Ulysse Nardin (circa 1846) was released in 1996 and this cloisonné enamel series depicting the ship Ulysse in honor of the brands nautical heritage and was crafted by the artisans at Donzé Cadrans SA. Enamelling consists of three techniques— Grand Feu, Champlevé and Cloisonné. t takes about five hours for simple dials in single colours, whereas the complex ones take at least 60 hours for a perfect Cloisonné. Cloisonné enamel in watchmaking presents unique challenges even for experts in Grand Feu enamel dials. Creating these dials involves applying three to six layers of enamel, with the challenge being to perfect it by the fourth layer to prevent the back, which also has enamel, from burning. Experience is crucial as there are no formal training schools for enamellers. Cloisonné, an ancient technique dating back to before the Middle Ages, involves creating compartments with gold wire to precisely apply enamel in different colors and heating at different temperatures. This technique is always done on white or yellow gold dials, with the name 'cloisonné' derived from the French word for 'partitions.' The process requires working with 0.06mm thick gold wires under a microscope. Artisans need immense energy and concentration, often spending eight hours a day on their work, with tasks like wire folding sometimes taking up to 10 hours. The wire used can be circular or rectangular in section; the former offers an advantage when partitions are positioned and does not collapse. It takes three to four layers of colored enamel and at least five runs in the kiln before application of a last layer of transparent enamel called ‘fondant'. This layer is surfaced with a diamond file and then polished. Once the dial is complete it needs to be drilled to add any appliques as well as the hole for the placement of the hands.
In addition there is an Easter Egg (hidden little feature) on the caseback of the watch. The embossed caseback featuring the Lion of Venice (winged lion sculpture) from Piazza San Marco has a book in his hand and if you look closely with a loupe you will see the text engraved in miniature and in Latin:“Pax tibi Marce, evangelista meus” which means “Peace be with you, Mark, my evangelist” |